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FALL 2014 MENSWEAR Marc By Marc Jacobs

FALL 2014 MENSWEAR J.Crew

Let's face it: This winter has been a challenge. The weather has been so in-your-face frigid, windy, stormy, sleety, and all-around nasty, it was bound to exert some influence over designers' thinking about next year's cold season clothes. J.Crew menswear honcho Frank Muytjens has certainly taken the conditions onboard: The brand's latest collection, inspired by mid-century New York City dockworkers, erred toward the hardy, on the one hand, and the cozy on the other. And of course, this being J.Crew, both the hardiness and the coziness were executed with a high degree of polish. Thus, a naval anorak was rejigged in felted wool and nylon, with an angled pocket, and the classic toggle coat traded in its workhorse hood for a neat popped collar. Elsewhere, on the cozy end of the spectrum, the collection was bursting at the seams with dressy sweats, not to mention sweaters in mish-mash argyle patterns, which Muytjens showed worn with a suit and a scarf. It's too cold for broadcloth button-downs! These days, a man must beat back the elements in rough 'n' ready apparel such as dark denim jeans, shawl-collared sweaters, and puffer jackets if he wants to be ready for the next polar vortex

FALL 2014 MENSWEAR Mark McNairy New Amsterdam

Mark McNairy definitely knows how to play to his audience. All one needed to do was look at the "Jim Fucking Moore" T-shirt—worn with white long johns and a camo baseball cap by one of his few female models—to see that. (For the record, Moore, the creative director of GQ, seemed to love the homage and expressed his gratitude via a bro-hug backstage.) Novelties aside, McNairy presented a bevy of well-made garments infused with his signature sartorial cheek. With the aim of "taking elements from the past and making them new," he transformed traditionally formal looks like wool suits into street-ready wares by relaxing their cuts and rolling up the pant cuffs. In one instance, he showed a quilted tweed coat in place of a suit jacket, and in another, he turned a pair of dressy gray pinstriped trousers into track pants by adding subtle cargo pockets and tapering the ankles with a ribbed black-and-white-striped band. Per usual, bow ties and camo prints abounded, and newsboy caps and leather driving gloves reinforced the range's dandy-with-a-wink attitude. 

For her, there were oversize khaki pants, baggy varsity sweaters, flannel tops, and American Apparel-esque leggings—the kind of stuff you might expect to find on a university campus come November. 

The street-meets-prep menswear collection will no doubt appeal to a range of snazzy gents, from collegiate WASPs looking for an edge to, well, Cam'ron. The rapper closed the show (following a model in a particularly fun faux-fur camo coat) donning a thoroughly ridiculous custom cape made from tweed and faux fur. Naturally, the front row went wild.

FALL 2014 MENSWEAR Patrik Ervell